Walters reviewed by Diane Hudson SummerGuide 2007 A transformed Walter’s wows tourists and Old Port denizens. Sometimes you forget to visit the restaurants you walk by almost daily. They seem so invisible, or something that “others” (like tourists) frequent. And then someone local surprises with a quip like, “Hey, have you tried the new Walter’s lately?” You blink, “Uh, no…why?” “Because it’s good, very good.” Walter’s, redecorated and energetic in the heart of the Old Port at 15 Exchange Street, does it right, from start to finish. Specialty drinks beckon along with an amazing wine list–over 20 wines are available by the glass. A large assortment of beers and ales includes Geary’s, Shipyard, Gritty’s, Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA, Duvel Belgian Golden Ale, and a Seasonal Select. From more than 50 red wines on the list, we chose Thorn-Clark Milton Park Shiraz Barossa Valley from Australia ($22): a fantastic find. Exquisite olive oil in a fine little vial ac–companies sourdough bread, perfect for dipping. Is the bread from Standard Bakery, we ask? “No, but our baker here used to work at Standard.” Our starter of pan-roasted Bangs Island rope mussels with tasso (smoked ham with a spicy, peppery rind), white beans, and escarole in a fragrant saffron coriander broth was an instant hit–and an exceptional value at $9–with the fine bread sopping up subtly seasoned juices. Appealing appetizers abound, including Thai lettuce wraps, chilled spicy Thai chicken with basil, kaffir lime, chilis, peanuts, and Bibb lettuce for wrapping ($8), Wild Game Sausage Skewers ($9), crispy Asian raviolis stuffed with lemon grass chicken in a sherry sweet chili butter sauce ($8), and Maine Peekytoe Crab Cakes ($9). My rack of lamb ($25) with Peruvian Purple mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, baby carrots, and natural au jus red wine pan sauce was as good as it gets. Decorating the dish were lovely, thin, tasty strands of something we could not guess: a flavor we’ve never encountered. “Popcorn sprouts,” announced our server. The “all day braised” lamb orecchiette ($19) received accolades from my generally picky partner. The pulled tender lamb shank is served with roasted root vegetables and terrific sauce over delicious “little pig ear” pasta with a toasted caraway and smoked paprika creme fraiche. The pasta, perfectly al dente, is a refreshing change to the usual potato accompaniment for this sort of dish. Desserts are equally engaging, with my favorite being the “ever changing” creme brulée ($7); then again, maybe it’s the molten lava chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream ($8), or the mixed berry crisp ($6), or the perennial crowd-pleaser, tiramisu ($7). Many thanks to chef-owner Jeff Buerhaus, partner Cheryl Buerhaus, and barman/wine connoisseur Steve Lovenguth for a memorable and satisfying dining experience. Walter’s, 15 Exchange Street, Portland. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30-2:30, dinner Sunday-Saturday 5 p.m.-close. 871-9258 or www.walterscafe.com